Lois Daish wrote the Listener food column for many years. Her food and ideas were always straightforward and approachable, a bit like Lois. She is an old colleague from Wellington restaurant days and has generously (another of her many qualities) allowed me to reprint her recipe. Traditionally, a large roasted leg of lamb would be the meat du jour on Christmas Day. These days that leg might blow the budget if you are feeding a crowd. This slow cooked lamb shoulder is economic, sweet and tasty. Allow 200g of uncooked meat weight per guest when you are buying the lamb and adjust the recipe accordingly. Lois suggests a shoulder feeds 3-4, these would be very generous serves but would give you leftovers for Boxing Day.